Natural cosmetics are essentially a creation of the last two decades and appear to be gaining ground even in our country.
The demand for less chemically burdened products is steadily increasing, and the shift of consumers towards natural products is now a reality. According to a study conducted by the International Journal of Chemistry (source: www.ccsenet.org/ijc), among a group of individuals, 87% reported using cosmetics, 94% believe that synthetic cosmetics can cause side effects, while only 6% believe that natural cosmetics might cause side effects.
What Are Natural Cosmetics?
There is no internationally recognized method that clearly distinguishes natural cosmetics from others based on objective criteria. Efforts have been made only at the national level in various countries, and there is no specific community directive, although the European Commission has collaborated with Collipa to develop a definition for the most precise concept of what natural cosmetics are, expected to be published in the new Regulation of the European Commission on cosmetics.
However, it is generally accepted that natural cosmetics are products whose ingredients, especially active agents used to provide the desired cosmetic properties, have a natural origin. Natural cosmetics can include ingredients of plant origin (e.g., extracts, essential oils, active plant components, etc.), animal origin, marine origin, or mineral origin, with minimal and safest possible processing.
Based on their composition, they can be classified into two categories:
100% Natural Cosmetics: It is practically impossible to produce a product that is 100% natural, except for a few exceptions like body oils (which may contain essential oils) whose ingredients are 100% of natural origin.
Natural-Origin Cosmetics: Almost all natural cosmetics fall into this category. Their active ingredients are natural substances, but they may contain small amounts of synthetic substances. The percentage of natural substances in them, depending on who certifies them, usually ranges from 10-90%, but does not reach 100%.
However, natural ingredients used in cosmetics until 1996 included several of animal origin, such as collagen, elastin, placenta, which accounted for a significant portion of the ingredients of natural cosmetics at that time due to their proven high effectiveness.
After the 'mad cow crisis,' the use of these substances in cosmetics was prohibited by legislation. For this reason, many companies shifted their focus to plant-based substances, and the term 'plant-based cosmetics' appeared on their packaging, even though these products do not contain only plant-based ingredients. Despite the ban, there are still companies that provide products of animal origin, but they are considered 'purer' according to common consensus, even more so than plant-based products, such as bee-derived products (royal jelly, honey, pollen, propolis, wax).
Advantages of Natural Cosmetics
In the formulation of natural cosmetics, the principles of green chemistry are employed, combining the use of naturally sourced raw materials with environmentally friendly processes to protect consumers from unwanted effects.
Natural cosmetics, due to the many actions that natural ingredients can possess, have broad applications throughout the body, while synthetic cosmetics typically have targeted actions.
Natural cosmetics are generally associated with fewer adverse effects compared to synthetic ones.
They have a stronger appeal to consumers. It is argued that the human body is more receptive to ingredients of natural origin than to synthetic derivatives.
Mar 11
This is the most widely used category of cosmetics, with products primarily composed of synthetic chemical ingredients. They may contain plant-based, animal-derived, fish oils, or mineral ingredients that have undergone chemical processes.
Advantages:
Long shelf life due to the inclusion of effective preservatives that inhibit microbial growth.
A wide range of functions and elements, easily obtainable through laboratory production.
Cost-effective raw materials.
Disadvantages:
In recent years, consumers' shift towards a healthier lifestyle has raised questions about the safety of cosmetic ingredients. New research has implicated some of these substances in causing severe health issues and even their association with carcinogenesis.
For example, aestheticians and hairdressers who regularly come into contact with cosmetics have been found to have 2 to 4 times more toxins in their bodies than women who use cosmetics on a daily basis. This is a result of the toxic substances present in cosmetics. It has been proven that every woman using cosmetics burdens her body with 2 kilograms of chemical substances per year. Some of these chemicals are particularly hazardous to the body. The following list includes some of the ingredients that have been accused of unwanted effects from time to time.
Parabens (mainly butyl & isobutyl paraben): Used as preservatives to extend product shelf life and prevent microbial growth. Parabens are estimated to be used in over 13,200 products (shampoos, soaps, creams, conditioners, sunscreens). They have been linked to allergic reactions and dermatitis, considered toxic in large doses, and are under investigation for their role in breast cancer development, as they have been found in biopsies of cancerous tumors. They may also affect hormonal balance in the body.
Petroleum-based or mineral oils (paraffin oil, petrolatum): They create a thin, membrane-like layer on the skin, hindering its ability to breathe, expel toxins, stay hydrated, and generate new healthy cells. Common reactions include blackheads, dehydration, photosensitivity (sensitivity to the sun, leading to pigmentation), and premature skin aging. They are widely used in cosmetics due to their low cost. Mineral oils like petroleum jelly (petrolatum) can cause problems in photosensitive skin, making it more vulnerable to UV radiation and hindering the natural functioning of the body, leading to skin dehydration.
Synthetic colors: They enhance the appearance of cosmetics, making them more visually appealing. They usually contain heavy metals, identified by their initials FD&C or D&C followed by a color and a number. Synthetic colors used to make cosmetics more attractive, as well as hair dyes, should be avoided as much as possible because they are associated with several forms of cancer. You will find them listed as FD&C or D&C, followed by a color or number. For example: FD&C Red No. 6 / D&C Green No. 6.
Synthetic Fragrances The words 'fragrance' and 'parfum' conceal dozens of chemical ingredients that are not listed on the product label. Their combination is responsible for headaches, dizziness, skin irritations, coughing, hyperpigmentation, and more. They may also contain phthalates, toxic substances that harm the kidneys and reduce fertility. Synthetic fragrances used in cosmetics can contain up to 200 different ingredients.
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) can be synthetic or plant-based (from coconuts) depending on the company's philosophy. They are used to create foam in shampoos, shower gels, cleansers, and toothpaste. They can cause eye irritation, skin rashes, hair loss, dandruff, and allergies.
Aluminum Compounds (Aluminum Allantoinate, Aluminum Carbonate, Aluminum Chloride) A very common ingredient used in deodorants and antiperspirants. Aluminum compounds can literally stop the body's natural sweating process. They can shrink sweat glands and block pores.
Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT) It is a synthetic ingredient (derived from petroleum) found in water-based creams, moisturizers, and cosmetics as an antioxidant. It is highly photosensitive and can cause severe irritation when exposed to the sun, as well as allergic skin reactions.
Acetone The well-known 'acetone' used as a solvent for nail polish is classified as a hazardous substance. It can cause dry mouth, dizziness, nausea, speech difficulties, and, in extreme cases, coma. It acts as a depressant of the central nervous system (CNS).
Ammonium Hydroxide Compounds Many ammonium hydroxide compounds are used in cosmetics. They are toxic and can trigger allergic reactions in many people. Prolonged exposure can lead to coughing, and respiratory distress resulting in pulmonary edema, which can be fatal.
Diethanolamine (DEA) Often used in cosmetics as a pH regulator. It is also used in many fatty acids to convert the acid into stearic acid salts, which are then used as a base in creams. DEA can cause allergic reactions, and eye & skin irritation. Prolonged use can be toxic.
Mercury Compounds Mercury compounds are easily absorbed through the skin via topical application and tend to accumulate in the body. They may cause allergic reactions, irritant dermatitis, or even neurotoxic events. The use of mercury compounds in cosmetics is limited to those used in the eye area, in concentrations not exceeding 65 parts per million (0.0065%) of calculated mercury as a metal, and provided that there is no other effective and safe preservative. All other cosmetics containing mercury are considered adulterated unless the quantity is less than 0.0001% of the total product.
Below are summarized the most common adverse effects of synthetic cosmetics that can be observed during their use:
Irritant dermatitis
Allergic dermatitis
Phototoxic or photoallergic dermatitis
Acne from cosmetics (cosmetic acne)
Exacerbation of skin conditions.
Mar 11
There has been a lot of talk about sweetening agents lately. Sugar is everywhere, well hidden by the food industry. Therefore, it is necessary to understand what happens with the sweet taste that gives us pleasure, but unfortunately, many times leads us mathematically to diseases that can seriously threaten our health. I would like to emphasize that the mentioned sweetening agents are being examined here for their toxicity, whether they are natural or not, and for how high blood sugar peaks they may cause. These peaks, or in other words, abnormal fluctuations in our blood sugar levels, are the cause of unpleasant conditions and many diseases.
Stevia,
the Sugar of the Future
The leaves of Stevia are very sweet & calorie-free and do not raise blood sugar levels.
It is a plant from the chrysanthemum family primarily cultivated in Brazil and Paraguay. Its leaves, when chewed, have a very sweet taste with a hint of licorice. The plant yields an extract that is 300 times sweeter than sugar.
Inhabitants of the Southern Hemisphere have been using it for hundreds of years as a sweetener, food, and medicine due to its remarkable antidiabetic, antihypertensive, antiseptic, wound-healing, antioxidant, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. It boosts the body's defenses and protects against viruses, viral cancers, DNA damage, and other health issues.
In the "civilized world," ten countries, including Japan, where it was first introduced as a sweetener in Coca-Cola, have been using Stevia for some time. However, in the United States, it is only accepted as a dietary supplement and not as an ingredient in foods and beverages. In Europe, after a challenging journey (for what reason?), Stevia is now approved and even cultivated in our country.
The accepted daily dose is 4 mg/kg of body weight, although larger quantities are also acceptable due to a significant safety margin. This limit applies to adults and children (excluding infants) and is equivalent to a Stevia extract consumption of 12 mg per kilogram of body weight. Thus, a person weighing 70 kilograms can consume 840 mg per day.
Additionally, Stevia has anti-aging effects on the skin, promotes oral hygiene, protects against Candida and canker sores, gum inflammation, and has a preventive effect against plaque and tooth decay. It can be used in sweets, chewing gum, toothpaste, beverages, chocolates, cosmetics, shampoos, and even pet food. It does not cause any blood sugar spikes.
In an experiment conducted in 2019 at the IN VITRO Medical Laboratories of Biopathology in Anavyssos, Attica, we examined glucose levels after consuming 75 grams of chocolate sweetened exclusively with Stevia, involving 12 volunteers, including myself and my colleagues at the laboratory. None of the 12 experienced blood sugar levels exceeding 113 mg/dl in the first 60 minutes (peak value), and by 90 minutes, blood glucose levels had already fallen to fasting levels. Impressive. Stevia does not cause blood sugar peaks.
Despite vehement reactions against Stevia from various sugar industry multinationals and other sweeteners, which have been proven to be carcinogenic substances, the international scientific community regards Stevia as the sugar of the future. After its approval as a sweetener by the EU, Stevia is now used in various foods and beverages, including chocolates, and it can withstand temperatures up to 200 degrees Celsius, making it suitable for cooking, unlike aspartame, which breaks down at just 30 degrees."
Sugar Unprocessed from Sugar Cane
of dark brown color, it is slightly moist, has a non-crystalline texture, and has an aroma reminiscent of liquorice.
Beware of the imitation sugar found in various cafes or even in supermarkets, which is actually sugar dyed with molasses or other coloring agents. You can find it in stores with organic products, and besides its dark brown color, it is slightly moist, has a non-crystalline texture, and an aroma reminiscent of licorice. Among the various types available in the market, the best brands are Mascobado, Panela, and Demerara. It's important to note, however, that this is still sucrose, like the sugar in our kitchen, but it has undergone less processing. Nevertheless, it still consists of one molecule of glucose and one of fructose, which requires caution regarding the peaks of these two substances. It's good to prefer it over white sugar but always in small quantities.
Maltose
Thick and clear like honey, with a flavor that varies depending on the type (rice maltose, barley maltose, or other cereals) and often resembles the taste of caramel. Corn maltose is sweeter. Maltose is more natural than sugar, but it also has a high glycemic index. Maltose is also a disaccharide, composed of 2 glucose molecules linked together. This, in a considerable amount, will give us a blood sugar peak.
Agave Nectar
Found in the thick leaves of the Mexican agave cactus. It contains 95% fructose and has a very low glycemic index (20-25). Its taste is quite neutral, and it is slightly less sweet than maltose and sycamore syrup. It is suitable as a sweetener for beverages and sweets. The fact that it is almost entirely fructose makes it a sweetener to avoid because, as we have mentioned, fructose not only leads to high blood sugar peaks but also cannot be stored and is mostly converted into fat.
Sycamore Syrup
This is a product made from processing the juice of the Canadian sycamore tree. It contains minimal sucrose and has fewer calories than sugar (40 calories per tablespoon). Additionally, it contains trace elements such as copper, manganese, iron, and calcium. You can find it in stores specializing in organic products. It contains 68% sugar, so it should be used sparingly.
Honey
Honey is actually an animal product, so it cannot be included in a vegan diet. Bees, after collecting nectar from flowers and processing it with their saliva in their intestines, excrete it as honey. In nature, honey exists to nourish the queen bee and meet the needs of the hive. It contains fructose, maltose, glucose, vitamins, and trace elements, but as a food, it retains its nutritional value only when it is raw and minimally processed. Most commercially available honey is heated during processing, causing the sugars it contains to break down, enzymes with bacteriostatic properties to be destroyed, and its flavor to be altered. These are factors that should be taken into serious consideration. However, I've been informed by beekeepers that honey processing now follows the necessary standards. We consume it in moderation because it also contains fructose, glucose, and maltose, but it's preferred over sugar. Be cautious in supermarkets where honey is often adulterated with added sugar. Do not consume large quantities.
Fructose
Fructose is the primary sugar (but not the only one) found in fruits and honey. It is best obtained through natural sources like fruits and vegetables. The fructose sold in white crystalline form, similar to sugar, is a product devoid of other substances such as water, vitamins, and minerals, and therefore lacks nutritional value. However, fructose, compared to sucrose, has the advantage of having a very low glycemic index. Nevertheless, overconsumption can disrupt our metabolism. It's essential to remember that fructose leads to a blood sugar peak 10 times higher than glucose and, since it cannot be stored as glycogen like glucose, is mostly converted into fat, making it advisable to avoid excessive consumption.
sweeteners to avoid
Aspartame
Aspartame is a sweetener created by Monsanto. It is a chemically synthesized sweetening agent (E951) that is 200 times sweeter than sugar.
Aspartame is a sweetener created by Monsanto. It is a chemically synthesized sweetening agent (E951) that is 200 times sweeter than sugar. It is used in dietary products such as soft drinks, candies, chewing gums, pharmaceutical syrups, and children's antibiotics. It can irritate the intestines, and its excessive use can lead to serious illnesses. (Soffriti, M., et al., "Aspartame induces lymphomas and leukemias in rats," European Journal of Oncology, vol. 10, no. 2, July 2005).
The B. Ramazzini Research Institute of the European Foundation of Oncology Research in Bologna conducted a study on rats with alarming results: "Aspartame is a carcinogenic agent capable of causing lymphomas and leukemias in female rats at doses acceptable in human diets. The data also revealed that there was no weight loss in the groups using aspartame compared to those that did not."
Aspartame, at a temperature of 30°C, produces 10% methanol, a toxic alcohol (common in "bombs" cocktails), which is then metabolized in the intestine into formaldehyde, a toxic and dangerous substance used in the paint industry, embalming techniques, and furniture manufacturing. The International Agency for Research on Cancer has classified formaldehyde with certainty as a substance that causes cancer in humans. It also causes severe damage to brain cells, with the risk of blindness.
ACESULFAME POTASSIUM
Acesulfame Potassium is a chemical sweetening substance (E950). It is a potassium salt with a powerful sweetening effect that remains unchanged for many years (and that is certainly not a good thing). According to research on animals and human volunteers, acesulfame potassium undergoes no metabolism in the body, meaning it is not used by the organism and is excreted unchanged in urine. It is used as a sweetener in dietary products, especially for diabetics, soft drinks, and pharmaceuticals. Despite the fact that various organizations, such as the American Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the Scientific Committee of the European Union (which unfortunately often succumbs to political influences), do not classify acesulfame potassium as toxic, this should not necessarily be reassuring. This substance is a chemically synthesized product unknown to our metabolic systems and immune systems. The side effects of this substance have not yet been recorded, but inevitably, they will be documented at some point. Until then, caution is advised.
Other sweetening substances that are not metabolized in our bodies include sucralose and cyclamic acid. The latter has not been approved by the FDA. Beware, as there are many soft drinks (all "light" and "zero" varieties) that contain such substances. It is best to avoid them.
SACCHARIN
Saccharin was discovered in 1879 by two researchers at Johns Hopkins University in Baltimore, USA. It is the first artificial sweetening substance, 300 times sweeter than sugar, with a bitter and metallic aftertaste, which is mitigated by mixing it with aspartame. Saccharin is heat-resistant and inert. Already in the 1960s, after research studies, it was characterized as a carcinogen, and in 1977, its sale was prohibited in Canada. Despite contradictions regarding its side effects, it was the only available sweetening substance for diabetics, who protested strongly against its possible prohibition in the United States, ultimately prevailing over scientific research. Saccharin does not alter insulin levels and provides no energy to our bodies, but a diabetic who wants to "sweeten" things should not necessarily risk cancer!
In the VegAnic system, all sweetening substances are to be avoided. As we have seen, there are many alternative options to avoid white sugar and chemical sweeteners.
SUCRALOSE
Sucralose is produced by chlorinating sugar, meaning it is a chlorocarbon. Note that chlorocarbons are mainly used as pesticides in chlorine, in many disinfectants, insecticides, and in pesticides suspected of being carcinogenic. Despite publications from international scientific institutes characterizing sucralose as a toxic sweetening substance, both the FDA (USA) and the EFSA (EU) have classified sucralose as a "safe" sweetening substance. What do you say? Sucralose reduces our intestinal flora by about 50%, as well as P-glycoprotein (P-gp), which reduces the bioavailability and thus the action of almost all the medicines we use to improve our health. It is used in soft drinks, sweets, and chewing gum, and is the sweetening substance in Diet Pepsi Cola.
OTHER STRANGE-SOUNDING SUGARS WE SEE ON LABELS
Mannitol, Xylitol, and Sorbitol, contrary to what one might think considering their names, are natural substances found in fruits and the plant world. Note that they are extracted through chemical processes, but at least their molecule is recognizable by our bodies. So, we cannot compare them to aspartame and its ilk, which are definitely to be avoided!
Gerassimos Tsiolis, PhD in BiochemistryUniversity of Bologna, Italy
Jul 14
(Excerpt from my book "Glucose: Friend and Foe")
Glucose peaks are abnormal fluctuations in glucose levels that indicate the variability of blood sugar. We can also call them continuous spikes in blood sugar. High peaks can cause serious harm to our health. They depend on the consumption of all sugars, including those found in fruits and honey, or even in foods that are often unsuspected. Sugars are the 'enemies' of our body. However, we can get to know them better in order to consume them correctly, so as to keep the glycemic curve low, which is essential for our health.
Sugars are everywhere. We eat a lot of them, often without realizing it, putting our health at risk. For many years, we believed that measuring sugar was enough to show us the consequences of glycemia in our bodies. Today, however, we know that what seriously affects our health is the damage caused by glucose peaks. Regardless of whether someone is diabetic or not, peaks harm us all.
Sudden hunger and chronic fatigue are just a few of the mild and common symptoms. In more serious cases, they include cardiovascular problems, diabetes, cancer, and Alzheimer's.
In this book, we will explore numerous studies from universities and advice from scientists who study glycemia intensively. They will explain why glucose peaks and unstable glycemia are dangerous and how to regulate them without giving up the pleasure of our favorite foods, including sweets and carbohydrates.
What exactly triggers a glycemic peak? Let's have a little chemistry lesson. Don't worry; chemistry is the easiest subject of all, with no surprises. When you combine 2 or more molecules or compounds in a chemical reaction, you know the result precisely, and it's also the most fascinating subject because it explains the world, life, love, our love for glucose, and even death. The reason why most children today don't know chemistry, ask the teachers of Secondary Education. Only they know. However, the only ones who are not to blame are the children.
So, a little chemistry. Our cells, like those of plants and animals, need energy to live, and the primary source of this energy is glucose. We get glucose from foods in the form of 2 carbohydrates: starch and sugars.
These sugars, which include glucose, fructose, sucrose (1 molecule of glucose + 1 molecule of fructose), and lactose (1 molecule of glucose + 1 molecule of galactose), are called 'rapidly absorbed carbohydrates' or 'simple sugars.' We find them in many foods like fruits, vegetables, and dairy products. However, we also find them as artificial additives in many other foods, such as bread, soft drinks, and snacks. We even find them as sweeteners, and we must pay attention to those as well.
Foods containing natural sugars also contain dietary fibers, vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients that slow down the absorption of sugars and make us feel full. In contrast, so-called processed foods are designed to be tastier and more attractive to consumers but have minimal dietary fiber because it complicates the production process, both in packaging and freezing-thawing. I would say here that processed and over-processed foods, poor in dietary fiber and rich in sugars, are useless calories, dangerous, and not at all nutritious.
When we have a glucose test with a pathologist, they take our blood while fasting, and immediately afterward, we consume a glucose solution (containing 1 gram of glucose per kilogram of the individual's weight, not 75 grams for all individuals). After 60 minutes, they take our blood again, and once more after 60 minutes. This gives us 3 samples, which are sufficient to examine the glucose or sugar curve. There are curves that measure glucose levels at 30 minutes, as well as at 150 and 180 minutes, but these are done in special cases.
The purpose of the curve is to determine if we are diabetic, if we are in a prediabetic stage, or if we have normal glucose metabolism.
When we receive the test results and look at the curve, we will see that the highest value corresponds to the blood drawn at 60 minutes. This value is also known as the glucose peak, meaning the peak, the highest point on the curve.
Here, we see two glucose curves. The blue line shows the fluctuation in glucose levels of a diabetic individual, while the green line represents a non-diabetic individual. However, in both cases, glucose has peaked, albeit to different degrees.
An example of the glucose curve, where in one hour we have the peak and then it falls down.
In this book, we will call any glucose value after any meal (we will specify in many meals and breakfasts) that exceeds 30% of the fasting value, which we will now call the baseline value, a 'peak.' High peaks will be the glucose value that exceeds 60% of the baseline value.
EXAMPLE: We measure glucose levels in two individuals who are fasting. Both have a baseline value of 100 mg/dl. We give them each a bowl of cereal with milk, with portions measured to the gram. After 60 minutes, we take a new sample. We observe that one of them has a glucose measurement of 130 mg/dl, while the other has 160 mg/dl.
In the first individual, glucose has peaked (+30% from the baseline value), while in the second individual, it has a high peak (+60% from the baseline value). Both will experience the consequences of these peaks, with the second individual experiencing much worse consequences. We will see why below.
Glucose peaks are harmful to all of us, not just diabetics.
Gerassimos Tsiolis, PhD in BiochemistryUniversity of Bologna, Italy